Platinum Vs 18ct white gold - Battle of the bands

Written By Susannah King

So, you’re thinking about “the ring”? Or perhaps considering a special self-gift?

Choosing the perfect ring involves more than just selecting beautiful gemstones—it also means picking the right metal to hold them. Two popular white-metal choices for ring settings are platinum and 18ct white gold. While they may look similar at first glance, these metals differ in terms of durability, maintenance, price, and long-term wear.

As a bespoke Jeweller of 7 years, the question of “Platinum vs 18ct white gold?” often re-emerges as trends fall in favour of white metals. In this post, I endeavour to put to bed misconceptions, and to clarify facts surrounding the mystique of white precious metals.

Common Misconceptions

I felt compelled to write this post after identifying misconceptions my clients and shop-attendees hold around platinum.

In the early days of my career, Platinum was the happening metal: durable, low maintenance and luxurious. The expense of platinum far exceeded that of white gold, and so it was a metal reserved only for the most special pieces. by contrast white gold was considered a less expensive white-metal alternative to platinum in spite of it’s high maintenance reputation.

Misconception 1: Platinum is more expensive that White gold

With skyrocketing gold prices, platinum is now almost half the price of 18ct white gold. Platinum has maintained steady growth against gold’s huge leaps in price in recent months.

Misconception 2: It is still more expensive to make jewellery in platinum because it is more dense

Platinum weighs 1.34 times the amount of 18ct gold. If a gold ring weights 10g, an identical platinum ring will weigh 13.4g. even considering weight difference, platinum is still less expensive per item than 18ct white gold.

Misconception 3: Platinum is best for all jewellery because it is more durable

Platinum stands the test of time better than 18ct white gold, but is not as appropriate for jewellery intended to weigh less. Earrings are a shining example of an item of jewellery better made in 18ct white gold as it weighs less per item and therefore is more comfortable for the wearer.

18ct white gold

An overview

18ct white gold is a popular and luxurious metal choice for fine jewellery, especially engagement rings. It’s made by combining 75% pure gold (which is naturally yellow) with 25% white metals like palladium, silver, or nickel to give it a cooler, silvery tone. To enhance its bright white appearance, it’s usually coated in a thin layer of rhodium, a rare and reflective metal from the platinum family.

Long-term upkeep

Initially, white gold has a slightly off-white or warm undertone due to its gold content. The rhodium plating gives it that crisp, icy-white finish many people love. Over time, the rhodium can wear off, revealing the slightly warmer hue underneath—this can be refreshed but may cost between £100-£150 each time.

In addition, gold can wear down overtime. 18ct white gold pieces that are worn daily should be checked by a jeweller every 3-5years to ensure that claws are in-tact and the band is not too thin. After 10-15 years of daily wear, we expect to see repairs to 18ct white gold pieces such as claw replacements, or band replacements on items that are delicate. costs start from £85 for this nature of work.

To conclude

  • More expensive than platinum

  • Weighs less than platinum

  • Not truly white, and must be rhodium plated every 8-12 months to maintain bright whiter façade on rings

  • Best for warmer-toned skin when not rhodium plated

  • Less durable than platinum

    18ct white gold can be a costly way to wear white meal jewellery, including initial outlay, rhodium plating and repair costs.

Platinum

An Overview

Platinum is known for its naturally white colour, incredible durability, and luxurious feel. Unlike white gold, platinum is used in jewellery in a nearly pure form—typically 95% platinum, with just 5% alloyed metals for strength. Its cool, silvery hue is natural, which means it never needs rhodium plating to maintain its colour.

Long-term upkeep

Platinum has a naturally white colour that won’t fade or yellow over time.

Platinum is durable but not hard, meaning that it picks up scratches more easily than 18ct white gold. It may require frequent polishing to return it to a high-shine. This incurs a cost of around £45. (Please note, all pieces made by Susannah King receive free cleaning and polishing for life by our team).

To conclude

  • Weighs more than 18ct white gold

  • Costs less than 18ct white gold in initial outlay and long-term upkeep

  • No Rhodium plating required

  • Best for true-white metal appearance

  • Durable

    Platinum feels significantly more luxurious than 18ct white gold due to its density, but is not appropriate for jewellery intended to be lighter for comfort.

In short…

Platinum (in this moment) is a superior metal to create most jewellery pieceds in. If you’d like to enquire about your own platinum piece, contact us here.

Susannah King